Fête du Cassoulet


The French have a fête to celebrate everything to do with food: onions, apples, cheese… In most of this region at the moment each village is having its Fête de la Vendange to celebrate the end of the grape harvest.
But in Castelnaudary, situated on one of the largest basins of the Canal du Midi, it’s the Fête du Cassoulet. Castelnaudary is the centre of the cassoulet industry and is home to a number of competing manufacturers. There’s a huge artisanal market with products ranging from local cheese and wine, to every variety of cassoulet and local pottery.

There are huge marquees along the high street taken over by local restaurants to serve cassoulet and local wines and then, at around 3 pm (I say ‘around’ beacause this is the south of France…) the procession starts.

This is a bit like the Bridgwater Carnival (for anyone in the south-west of England) in that local communes spend the year preparing their float from paper flowers. They were all quite spectacular and included entire families, with young children involved – all dressed up and throwing confetti at the crowds.

There were brass bands and majorettes – and even a bit of a Scottish influence (not sure where that came from…). as well as the inevitable Cathar knights, all made from flowers.

It was an amazing spectacle (and lunch!!) and we’d parked some way along the canal and so lunch was digested by a lovely walk along what – today – was quite a busy waterway.

Castelnaudary certainly seems to be booming as is attested by a  huge new out-of-town shopping zone just on the edge, including what looks like a gigantic Intermarché hypermarket.

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Correction!

Les Bains du Couloubret are in Ax-les-Thermes – I obviously had too many ‘bains’ yesterday. Apologies.

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Les Bains du Couloubret


Les Bains du Couloubret is a fabulous new spa centre in the thermal resort of Ax-les-Thermes and yesterday – purely in the interests of the blog, you understand… – a friend and I went to try it out.

It’s modelled on a typical Roman baths and has been beautifully done. The thermal waters are between 33° and 38° and you can swim from the internal pool through a little tunnel to the outside ones.

Yesterday was a gloriously sunny day in Ax but far too cold to be out of the water. Yet in the water was just gorgeous – lounging around with various jets, walls of water and whirlpools whilst gazing at snow still on the surrounding mountains.

There’s a wide variety of baths – the only one we didn’t try was the Frigidarium which is just as it sounds and seemed a bit masochistic to us…

My favourite was the Bain Irlando-Romain where you lie down on specially shaped ‘beds’ in the pool with headrests and jets come over your whole body.

We felt we ought to try out all the facilities so we also had a massage each in the very luxurious ‘Wellness’ suite.

Do look at the website: www.bains-couloubret.com – it really is as good as the brochure and, in our view, not at all expensive for such an impressive facility.

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Asparagus time again!


There’s asparagus in every market at the moment but this display in the medieval market place of Revel last Saturday morning is just the best I’ve seen.

Revel really is one of the nicest markets in the area, selling a massive array of local produce: cassoulet, confit of duck, local preserves and cheeses…

We usually follow up a visit to the market with lunch on the edge of Lac St Ferréol and this Saturday the weather was so glorious that we ate outside and then took a walk around the lake in the sun.

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Le Cimetière Marin


As it’s been a lovely sunny week, we decided yesterday to have a trip to the coast. We had a seafood lunch around the marina at Gruissan, just outside Narbonne.

Then we decided to try to find the Mariners’ Cemetery – something I’d visited about ten years ago but have never been able to find since!

It’s a track way into the garrigue at the entrance to Gruissan (not very well signposted…) which leads up to the Chapelle des Auzils http://www.aude.org/nda/ .

All the way up the track are gravestones to sailors and ships lost at sea and never found. It’s really quite moving – and actually quite gratifying to be able to stop and read the inscriptions so often, as it is a bit of a climb.

At the top is a very pretty chapel (very pretty from the outside and I’ve only ever seen pictures of the inside as it’s always locked…) with stunning views over the sea and – on a clear day – to the coastline of Africa.

Apparently, once a year there is a pilgrimage up to the church and a service to remember all those lost at sea. A more perfect setting couldn’t be imagined!

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